Pets Love Deals

Are There Really Any Hypoallergenic Pets?

Posted 10/18/2011 by Pet Deals

What’s an allergy-suffering pet lover to do?  Claims abound, but are there any truly hypoallergenic dogs or cats?  Most allergy specialists say not for everyone and not all the time, but with a little bit of due diligence and determination, you can maximize your chances of a comfortable, sneeze-free life with your favorite furry friend.

 

The Real Culprit

Don’t think hair or fur. Think saliva, skin, and especially the insidious little glycoproteins FEL d1 in cats and CAN f1 in dogs. These proteins are the major allergens that bother human allergy sufferers and are present to some degree in all dogs and cats, although they vary according to the animal’s age, size, and even gender.  Unfortunately these proteins are incredibly small – 10 times smaller than pollen or dust particles – which makes them harder to control on your pet and in your environment but helps them pass easily through your bronchial membranes.  How nice for them.  Luckily there’s a lot you can do to mitigate the problem (read on).

If you’re looking for a new pet, now’s the ideal time to educate yourself on the ifs, ands, and buts of  various pet types, but please don’t assume you need to purchase an expensive purebred dog or cat or a hybrid touted as “hypoallergenic.”  Some general guidelines can help you choose the pet with the best chance of success in your home and give you some simple steps to reducing the overall sneeze factor. 

 

Some Fancy Facts to Keep in Mind

A few little things you may not know about allergies to cats and dogs…

• There is no regulation or legal term defining “hypoallergenic” in pets, so the word really has little meaning.

• All dogs and cats produce allergens.  The amount varies by individual animal.  The reaction to individual animals varies by individual human.

• Cat allergens tend to be much more potent that dog allergens, which may explain why more people are allergic to cats than dogs.

• Allergic symptoms often don’t show up until days or even weeks of exposure to an individual animal.

• Hairless and short-haired cats and dogs may produce fewer allergens and be better tolerated by pet allergy sufferers, but not necessarily. 

• Allergy shots (routine injections of allergens that can result in tolerance over time) are more likely work for those allergic to cats than those allergic to dogs.

• Allergen production can vary at times in the same cat or dog.

• Kittens between 6-12 months produce less allergen than adult cats.

• Male cats generally produce more allergen than females, and neutered males produce less than intact males.  Yet another reason to neuter, in case there weren’t enough already.

• Some studies show dark-colored cats caused more allergy symptoms than light-colored cats, but others found no correlation.  Same with long vs. short-haired cats.

• Cat allergens can remain in a home for six months or up to four years in a cat’s bedding.

• Cat allergens have been found in the Antarctic, where no cat is known to have been.

 

Some Breeds Considered to Have Lower (not non-existent) Allergens

If you’re in the market for a new pet and you need one with low allergens, please be aware that there are plenty of pets in shelters and foster homes that have some combination of these breeds or are even purebred.  Please check our Non-Profit Beneficiary page for a great place to start your search!

DOG

• Poodle

• Labradoodle and other “oodles”

• Chinese Crested

• Soft-Coated Wheaton Terrier

• Maltese

• Bichon Frise

• Portuguese Water Dog

• Schnauzer

• Kerry Blue Terrier

• Xoloitzcuintli

 

CAT

• Siberian

• Devon Rex

• Sphynx

• Balinese

• Oriental Shorthair

• Javanese

• Cornish Rex

 

 

Controlling the Variables

Regardless of your pet, there’s a lot you can do to control the allergens that cause symptoms.

• Frequent washing of dogs (and cats, if you can get them to cooperate).  Grooming outside the home keeps allergens out of your environment.

• Minimizing other allergens in the house – dust, mold, scented candles, smoke, etc. – gives pet allergens less to hang onto.  Also, the presence of multiple allergens invites more severe reactions.

• Wear more cotton and less wool.  Wool captures and holds more allergens than cotton.

• As much as you love having your pet on your bed (and as unlikely as it is that your cat will listen when you say “no”), it really is better to give them their own bed.  Allergens will gather there instead of on your pillow.

• Wash your bedding, pillow covers, anything else your pet hangs out on frequently and in hot water.

• Wash your hands after touching your pet (especially your cat’s head) and before touching your face.

• Hardwood or other solid flooring is better than carpet, light curtains or blinds better than heavy drapes for resisting allergens.

• Frequent use of allergy wipes like Allerpet can really help.  They’re generally odorless, colorless, and safe for you and your pet. 

• Consider creating a fun outdoor enclosure for your cat to hang out in.  A small covered porch closed in with wire or vinyl grid screening makes a safe haven for your cat to enjoy the outdoors while you get some fresh air in the house.

• Look into a high-efficiency air cleaner, either portable or centralized.

• Check with your doc about allergy testing to verify the source of your symptoms and the effectiveness of allergy shots (immunotherapy) in your case.  Patience…it can take up to a year for them to take effect.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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Beware Crotalus Oreganus

Posted by Pet Deals

Any pet who spends time outdoors – especially during summer months – is bound to encounter a snake at some point in their lives. Although most Bay Area snake varieties are completely harmless, one very venomous one thrives here. Even if you think the chances of your pooch or kitty getting in trouble with a snake are remote, it’s worth having a little bit of knowledge just in case. The site of a slithery snake can bring out the prey drive in even the most sensible and complacent of pets.

 

 

The Northern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus Oreganus)

The only venomous snake native to the SF Bay area and the only one you really need to worry about. 

 

Spotting a Rattler

Look for a diamond-shaped head on a skinny neck and elliptical, snake-y eyes.  Rattlers come in lots of colors and marking patterns – often matching their environment – olive-green, gray, brown, golden, reddish brown, yellowish, or tan with darker  blotches. Best not to go by their color, markings or whether you see or hear a rattle (babies don’t have them yet).  Please don’t get this close.

 

A Rattler’s Lifestyle

Unfortunately “our” rattler isn’t just found under rocks in the desert.  Crotalus also likes seaside dunes, scrub, grasslands, rocky hillsides, chaparral, open woodlands, and agricultural fields – just about any place between sea level and 11,000 feet.  And they’re not strictly nocturnal – in milder climes, they’re also diurnal (active day or night). They’re most active in warm months but don’t count them out in winter. If your dog or cat is a real hunter, you need to at least be aware of rattlers year round.

Rattlers love rocks, rocky outcrops, crevices, caves, tall grass, and dirt or sand burrows. Rattlers may burrow in large groups or in the company of other snakes (yuck) in cooler weather. Being cold-blooded, they favor a sunny basking spot in the morning, heading for shade as the sun climbs. 

Rattlers are defensive by nature and NOT naturally aggressive unless you’re a small rodent, bird, rabbit, amphibian, or another snake.  Adult California Ground Squirrels, interestingly, are immune to rattler venom (not sure snakes know this) and therefore very cheeky around Crotalus Oreganus.

The rattler’s usual MO if startled or confronted is to slither away while rattling furiously. The problem comes in when they’re cornered or pursued by a barky, pushy dog or a cat with a death wish.

 

     MORE RATTLER FACTOIDS

 

 

A Pound of Prevention

While hiking with your pet in snake country, it’s best to stick to open paths where you have a clear view and to keep your pet on leash. Sorry, but it’s just too tempting for some dogs to explore holes, dig under rocks and logs, and otherwise look for trouble in snake country.

Wannabe wildcats can also get themselves in trouble if the wild kingdom they’re allowed to roam has rattlers. While most wildlife experts don’t believe there’s an effective rattler repellant, you can help protect your outside kitty by reducing the snake food supply: remove weeds and brush near your house, keep tall grass mown, plug up holes in the ground, and get rid of big rocks and wood piles. Sinking a fence a foot or two into the ground (solid or a small gauge wire mesh) can help keep both snakes and their prey food out of your yard.

Be aware that during hot spells rattler prey are often driven into residential neighborhoods and irrigated parks. The same thing can happen when an old house is torn down or vacant lot cleared.  Rodents and other critters flee; smart snakes follow.

If you encounter a snake, just stay still and give the poor thing time to move away. Supposedly snakes can only strike half the length of their body but who’s dumb enough to test this?  (Are you looking at your dog?)

If your pet is unfortunate enough to have a close encounter, don’t take chances. If you even suspect they’ve been struck, get to a vet immediately.  Don’t assume because you don’t see bite marks or sudden, significant swelling that there’s been no bite.  Don’t waste time with home remedies like sucking the venom out.  Minutes count here. Try to keep your pet calm and quiet to slow the spread of venom and get to the nearest vet any way you can.

 

Vaccines

Rattlesnake vaccinations for pets do exist (and you may even be able to find a pet coupon for one). Veterinary opinions on their effectiveness are mixed, however. Depending on the amount of venom injected, the size of your pet, how quickly treatment is administered and other factors, a vaccine may minimize the effect of a snakebite. Get an opinion from your vet before you line up for one.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Control Fleas Without Nasty Chemcials

Posted by Pet Deals

You and your pets love the mild Bay Area climate.  So does our friend the flea.  One of the most successful parasites on earth, they’ve haven’t been the scourge of the ages for nothing – they’re tough, adaptable, and extremely prolific.  But if you’re concerned that the chemical topical treatments, flea bombs, and flea collars that have been the mainstay of modern flea control are poisoning you, your pets, and maybe the planet, you’re not alone.  And fleas?  They’re some evidence that they’re developing resistance to the insecticides in topical treatments and other flea stuff.  So we can’t count on them moving to another planet anytime soon.

 

Can It Be Done?

Of course, but how well depends on your level of determination and stick-to-itiveness.  Severe infestations – like when you can see them hopping around on the carpet – require all-out war to quell without strong chemicals.  Fortunately there are lots of great new products on the market as well as some home remedies.  But don’t waste any time getting started. 

 

Know Thine Enemy

If you’re a flea, you’ve got four life stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult.  Your average life span is about six weeks, but under ideal conditions you could live as long as a year.  If you’re a girl flea, you can look forward to laying 200-600 eggs in your lifetime. When your eggs hatch, the emerging larvae will feed on the feces of other adult fleas (isn’t that lovely?).  When they reach the adult phase, your offspring will look for a friendly animal host to suck blood from, lay eggs on, and generally make miserable. 

But the fleas you find actually living on your pets represent only about 1% of the population in your home – the other 99% of them are hanging out in your carpets, flooring, furniture, pet beds, and yard.  That’s why fighting fleas has to be a holistic effort involving your pet and both your interior and exterior environments. 

 

The Holistic Approach

Your Pet

• A Flea Comb is an essential part of your flea-fighting arsenal.  Get into the habit of combing your pet daily or semi-daily.  Drown the little buggers you capture in the comb in soapy water.  They’ve been known to jump out of plain water.

• Wash your pet’s bedding and anything else he hangs out on frequently and in hot water. 

• Natural Flea Repellants can help, but don’t count on them to do the whole job.  You can make a simple flea collar from a length of string or a bandana infused with an herbal preparation like Halo’s Cloud Nine. 

  Most herbal flea preparations contain oils made from essences like Tea Tree, Rosemary, Sage, Cedar wood, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Citrus, and Pine Needles.  They’ve also got some powerful smells, which may be irritating to you and/or your pet, so use caution and watch for reactions. 

  Herbal flea preps can also be mixed with water for a spray you can apply directly to your pet or added to shampoo for a non-chemical flea bath.  Prepared products like Cloud Nine, available online (check for pet coupons) or at pet stores are pricey, but take the guesswork out of mixing your own.

 

Your Interior Environment

• Vacuum the HECK out your home.  And frequently – as in every day or every other day to start.  Flea eggs (most of which fall off the animal and hatch on your floor) are lurking in cracks between floorboards and in corners.  If you’ve got a crevice tool to your vac, use it on every crevice you can find – furniture included.  Flea larvae hate light, so hit all the dark spots well.

  Herbal carpet powders such as Sentry’s Natural Defense containing similar ingredients to liquid herbal flea preps can really help but they’re a bit of work.  Some contain diatomaceous earth (such as Flea Away) and boric acid, all pretty benign compared to insecticidal products, but be careful – some pets are sensitive to these ingredients.  You need to sprinkle it everywhere – open the windows, this stuff has some strong aromas and may kick up a lot of fine powder.  You work it in, leave it on for up to 24 hours and vacuum.  As a nice bonus it kills fleas in the vacuum bag (read on below).

  Now they’re in the bag – don’t let them out.  Fleas are happy to meet other fleas and breed in your vacuum bag if you let them, just waiting to be released them back into your carpet next time you vacuum.  If you’re not using an herbal carpet powder, you’re going to have to either toss the bag with every use or wrap it up in plastic and leave it in your freezer overnight.  Weird, but it works.  Move over, vodka. 

  Please DON'T use mothballs in your vacuum bag to kill captured fleas.  That would release toxic fumes into the air when you vacuumed and defeat your purpose.

• Wash all the fabric you can pry loose – bedding, throw rugs, slipcovers, pillow shams.

 

Your Exterior Environment

• No, you can’t rid the world or even the neighborhood of fleas, but you can really cut down on the number that jump on board your pets from your yard or patio.  Raking up leaves and loose debris helps because it exposes fleas to light where you can…

• Spray with a solution made from Flea Away or other product containing diatomaceous earth.  It’s generally safe even if ingested by animals so no need to worry about your dog or self-cleaning cat.

• Beneficial Nematodes, delightful little bugs that feed on both flea adults and larvae, are available at nurseries and garden stores or through some natural pet sources.  Check the web.  Apply them via hose sprayer or even a watering can.  Bon appétit, nematodes.

 

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Find an Escaped Hamster, Mouse or Other Pet Rodent

Posted by Pet Deals

Uh Oh…Who Left the Cage Open?

Whether it was an accidental release or an outright jailbreak (they’re fabulous little escape artists),

your furry friend is on the loose. The world outside one’s cage is a big, scary place and the little squeaker is no doubt frightened. You’ve no time to lose getting him back to safety. Although they’ve been known to turn up

after days or even weeks, the sooner you start looking for him the less likely he’ll be to go far or get hurt.

First of all – leave the cage open with excellent, highly-sniffable treats inside…peanut butter on a cracker

or a lovely chunk of parmesan, for example. He may just saunter back in on his own. But just in case he’s out in the cold for awhile, leave fresh water in several places and, oh, confine the cat.

The Initial Search

First check likely rodent hiding places, working your way out from the open cage. If possible, design a computerized 3D scale model of your home with color-coded zones radiating from the site of the escape to ensure a thorough and organized search. Then think about all the dark, warm little hidey-holes your pet might be seeking out. Here’s a start:

• Underneath and behind beds, furniture, and appliances
• Under sofa and chair cushions
• Inside drawers and cabinets
• Holes and spaces beneath or behind cabinets that may lead into the walls
• Behind or underneath water heater or other heat source
• Behind draperies in a warm window
• Inside boxes, especially boxes with tissue or packing materials
• Inside backpacks and purses
• Inside shoes

 

The Tracking Techniques

If the initial search proves fruitless, you’ll need to employ some tracking. Since your little friend is nocturnal by nature, most tracking will have to take place at night. If you’re not up to an all-night vigil, you can set up some of these up before you go to bed and leave the detective work for morning. Unless you have a cat.

• Set Up a Motion Detector. If you’re a light sleeper or don’t mind sitting in the dark waiting, you can try strategic placement of cellophane or other loud, crinkly paper near suspected hideouts, in doorways, or surrounding treat piles. When trod by tiny rodent feet, the paper or cellophane can make enough noise to give his location away.
• Count The Treats. Place a small pre-counted pile of sunflower seeds or other favorites on the floor in each room. The location of a treat pile with missing seeds will help narrow down your pet’s hiding place.
• Follow the Tiny White Footprints. A little flour or cornstarch sprinkled across thresholds and near treat piles can give you positive evidence that the little guy is on the move and even indicate his general direction. Get out your magnifying glass.
• The Peanut Trick. Tie long, lightweight strings or yarn around individual in-the-shell peanuts. Set in various key locations. Wait. Follow the string.
• The Bucket Trick. If all else fails, you can use a deep-ish plastic bucket with a wooden plank “ramp.” Lure the little fellow inside and he’ll have no choice but to sit tight until you retrieve him. Pad the bottom only with a towel and place a dish of tasty, sniffable treats in the center. Wait for your pet to scamper up the ramp and into the bucket with sides too slippery to climb. Don’t forget the cat.
• The Last Resort. A humane (catch and release) mouse trap. Follow the instructions to the letter. Iffy, but you’re desperate.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Tell if Your Pet is in Heat Distress

Posted by Pet Deals

Hyperthermia just means elevated body temperature and its very bad news for dogs and cats. Because God or dog or whomever didn't give them the lovely ability to sweat through their skin like humans, dogs and cats can only release body heat by panting and by sweating through their foot pads and nose. Not very efficient for cooling an active dog in summer, a furry cat left stuck outside without shade, or any animal locked inside a car on even a fairly mild day.

Both forms of hyperthermia, Heat Stroke and her only-slightly-less-frightening cousin Heat Exhaustion are nothing to fool around with. BOTH CAN QUICKLY CAUSE PERMANENT DAMAGE OR DEATH. BOTH CALL FOR IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION. Once the symptoms of any type of hyperthermia appear, you've got very little time to act. When a dog's internal body temperature reaches 106 degrees, the poor thing could very well have irreversible damage to cellular systems and organs, which may literally begin to shut down.

When to be Concerned

• Internal temperature over 104 degrees. Over 106 Degrees is a dire emergency.

• Vigorous panting

• Dark red gums

• Tacky or dry mucus membranes, specifically the gums

• Lying down and unwilling (or unable) to get up

• Collapse and/or loss of consciousness

• Thick saliva

• Dizziness or disorientation

What to Do

If you even the suspect your pet to be suffering from heat distress, act immediately.

• Stop all activity.

• Move your pet out of heat and sun.

• Start cooling gradually using cool, wet rags or towels. Concentrate the towels around the head and on the foot pads. Get some help if your pet doesn't like this. Your average cat – even one in heat distress – probably won't be thrilled.

• Avoid use of ice or ice water. You could actually do more harm than good with too much cold by constricting blood vessels, which can prevent the body's core from cooling and cause internal temperature to rise instead of fall.

• Take your pet's temperature again. (You DO have a veterinary thermometer, don't you?) When it reaches 103 degrees, stop the cooling.

• Offer water but don't force it.

• Get your pet to the vet, even if he seems better. Unless your pet can look at you and say "Don't worry – I am fully recovered and do not require further treatment and tests," take him in ASAP.

 

Avoid the Problem

I know you've heard this a million times, but it bears endless repeating: NEVER leave your pet alone in a car on a warm or warm-ish day. Everybody loves to have their dog along on errands and trips and sometimes it's even necessary, but PLEASE be extremely conservative about temperature. Your car can be an oven in a matter of minutes even with windows open – shade can shift; a cooling breeze can die down.

If it's at all warm out, please either:

Bring them in. Better to bring your pet into the store and get thrown out than risk his life by leaving him in the car. Really. If you're going out to eat, www.fidofactor.com has great listings and reviews of dog-friendly restaurants, bars, and all kinds of other businesses that welcome pets with open arms. Check 'em out.

OR

Leave them home if you can't plan a safe outing. I know it's hard to ignore the pleading eyes and the "Can I come? Huh? Huh?" look when you pick up your keys, but this tragedy just gets repeated again and again. Take a deep breath and shut the door.

Skip the crazy exercise on warm days, especially if you have one of those loony/happy activity hounds who just don't know when to quit. They can't help themselves. You'll just have to be the grown-up.

It sounds obvious, but do be sure your pet has plenty of shade options when outside and (screened) open windows or AC inside where possible.

Keeping plenty of fresh water available is obvious too, but did you know that dogs and cats both drink more water when it's running water? Some remnant of evolutionary survival. Just like us, pets need to keep hydrated in heat but they won't always drink enough if it's not appealing (your pup's toilet-drinking habit notwithstanding). There's even some evidence that cats who drink more water avoid urinary tract problems. Check out some of the great pet water fountains on the market.

Don't forget that short-nosed Pugs, Pekes, Pits, Bulldogs, and smash-faced kitties are much more heat sensitive. Think of them as delicate flowers in any kind of heat and keep them out of it! Honestly, a longer nose in the next life would be a great idea.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Keep a Goldfish Alive for More Than 10 Minutes

Posted by Pet Deals

What a disrespectful name for such a valiant little creature! How many millions have succumbed at the hands of us well-meaning but uninformed minders? It needed be…the natural lifespan of the sweet little wigglers is five to ten years. They're really pretty easy to care for if you tend to a few key points.

Air

Goldies need lots! That means lots of water and lots of surface area per fish. If you're going to keep them in a glass bowl, make it the biggest bowl you can find and plan on filling it to the point where water surface area is maximized. The more surface area, the more oxygenated the water will be. Figure at least one gallon of water per fish.

Serious goldfish keepers get real tanks with a real filter and aerator (bubbler), which increases capacity, keeps water cleaner, and maximizes the chances of healthy fish. If that's not fitting in with your decor, just make sure you get a BIG bowl.

Water

Besides lots of water, goldfish need their water to be clean, cold, and unchlorinated. When you fill the bowl or tank, you can use cold water out of the tap but it needs to be treated with a few drops of dechlorinator from the pet store. Easy. You can also use distilled water or just let tap water sit overnight to dechlorinate.

Goldfish like their water below 70 degrees (much cooler than tropical fish so you really can't mix them). Don't put them in a sunny window either or you'll have poached fish.

Food

Don't. Well, just don't overdo it. I don't know of any statistics, but I'd be willing to bet that more goldfish die of too much food than not enough. One SMALL pinch of food per day is plenty for one or two fish. Let them spend the rest of the day cleaning their room. It'll keep them busy. And because goldfish need a specific combination of protein and fat, don't use any other fish food.

A few more fishy points

• Replacing 25-50 percent of the water every 2-3 weeks will keep the bowl cleaner and fish breathing easier. Replace all the water every 4-6 weeks.

• When transferring fish to bowl, leave them floating in closed bag or container for 15 minutes while they adjust to the temperature. Don't forget them in there!

• Living aquatic plants add air to the water and ambiance to your bowl or tank.

• Too much sunlight will cause rapid algae growth that's hard to control.

• Never wash your bowl or tank with soap – the residue will harm fish.

• Don't add pennies or anything that leaches chemicals into the water.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Tell if Your Pet Needs a Vet

Posted by Pet Deals

The following is a VERY GENERAL GUIDELINE but is NOT intended to substitute for professional advice. If in doubt, definitely call your vet!

To Vet or Not to Vet

When pets have had a little mishap or are just not quite themselves, whether to schlep them to the vet or not can be a weighty decision. If only they’d cooperate and answer a few questions!

Go

In very general terms, here are the symptoms that should cause you to reach for your car keys and get your dog or cat to a vet:

• Pale gums
• Rapid breathing
• Weak or rapid pulse
• Change in body temperature
• Difficulty standing
• Apparent paralysis
• Loss of consciousness
• Seizures
• Excessive bleeding

 

Maybe Not

If your pet isn’t exhibiting any of the above symptoms, you may have a little more latitude. If your pet hasn’t eaten breakfast today, throws up, turned his nose up at a treat, or yelped when you picked him up just now, it may be nothing to worry about. If you’re a worry wart pet parent, this may be a good reason to cultivate a relationship with a vet you feel comfortable calling or e-mailing to help you suss out a true emergency from a minor sick day.

• Skipping a meal or refusing a treat could just mean an upset tummy (eaten anything interesting lately, little pal?), a reaction to excitement (moving day, visitors in the house, etc.) or that food just isn’t

  appealing to them right now. If a hunger strike persists much past 24 hours, your pet may be more than just ‘off his feed’ and a call to the vet in order, especially if they’re also refusing water. Just like us, pets can go

  several days without food but not without water. Don’t wait if your pet isn’t drinking.

• Vomiting isn’t necessarily cause for concern either, other than for your furnishings if they happen to be in the way. Dogs

  and cats both have a quicker vomit reflex than humans – particularly dogs – so occasional, isolated vomiting can be nothing more than good riddance to something their stomachs reject…often human food or something nasty from the

  dog park in dogs and hairballs in cats. In any case, prolonged, repeated vomiting accompanied by other symptoms may well be cause for concern. Best to call or go in to your vet.

• If your pet cries out when picked

  up, gently put them back down and see if you can figure out what the source of the pain might be. It could be an injury, joint pain, soreness from a fall, or just the way you picked them up. Older pets, long-backed dogs, or

  even a younger pet who took a fall recently should be picked up very gently. Get some guidance from your vet if soreness persists.




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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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How to Clip Your Pet’s Nails

Posted by Pet Deals

NOTE: This article basically applies to cats as well as dogs only cats are, well, they’re cats.

Why Clip?

If your dog gets plenty of road walks,

he/she may need little or no clipping (except for dew claws – see below). But most need some clipping periodically or they grow into scary little talons that curve under, can cause them pain and even make it hard to walk. Your

choices are to pay your vet or groomer to do it or to learn to do it yourself. It’s really pretty easy to do yourself and can even be good bonding and trust-building if you spend a little time working on it.

Foot Freaky

Many dogs hate having their feet held tightly or even handled. It’s no wonder – they need them for a quick getaway and some of them have had some scary-bad experiences having their nails clipped. Would

you readily extend your paw to a member of the same species who cut into the tender, nervy nail quick last time? Hardly.

Get ‘Em Started Early. If it’s Too Late for That, Start Now and Handle Often

Like so many things, starting the process at a very young age and getting your dog used to it is the best thing. If it’s too late

for that, the next best thing is to condition your dog to having his/her feet handled and to the nail trimming process in a gentle and gradual way. Like getting into a cold swimming pool – easy does it and a little at a time is

so much better than being shoved in all at once.

If your dog is foot freaky, just start by getting him used to you simply holding and stroking his paws. Then build up to applying light pressure on the paws and nails – lightly pinching the nails between your fingers and

thumb. Reward him for allowing this!

Talking to your dog in a nice soothing voice while you do this will help him associate it with good things and you’ve got a fighting chance of him at least putting up with it. Just ‘normalizing’ foot handling by doing it

gently at random times can help quell the fear reaction and get them started on a road to trust when it comes to nail trimming.

Trimmer Tools

The ‘guillotine’ (don’t freak) type is probably the most popular. The blade is changeable (sharp is best) and to me it’s easier to handle than the scissor type.

There are also the battery or electric dremel-type file tools but some dogs find the whirring things even scarier. Some people use them for filing; some just for smoothing rough edges after cutting. Rough edges will smooth out on their own with a little road walking.

It is a good idea to keep a styptic pencil handy to staunch bleeding in case you DO cut into the quick.cheap at the drug store.

The Pinkies and the Blackies

Seeing the quick is easy in those cute pink claws.

 

But pity the poor doggie with dark or mixed claws.

 

The quick can’t be seen in dark claws and he/she must hope for a more educated, patient human to do the clipping. Here’s how to handle each.

In a good strong light, look carefully for where the quick starts in the Pinkies. Holding the paw firmly but gently between your thumb and fingers (press gently to make the claws pop out), clip at least 2 mm below the visible quick. Better to leave too much than to cut too short.

 

For the Blackies, it’s best to take tiny little nibbles on a long curved claw starting with just cutting off the curved tip.

 

Start looking look closely at the cut end of the dark nail. The light tissue (1) is the curved bottom part of the nail. The mottled light and dark tissue (2) is the top part of the nail.

 

When you start seeing a grey/pink oval appear in the top half of the cut (3), stop there – you’re getting close to the quick.

 

When you’re done, praise the heck out of the little darling and take him for a romp. At least administer a belly rub.

 

Do the Dews

Don’t forget your dog’s dew claws (the ones growing higher up on the dog’s leg). Not yet evolved away, these pesky little hold-outs can get snagged clean off while running or playing and really cause problems. Best to keep them trimmed up too.

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This Pets Love Deals, Inc. article is intended for general information only. It is not intended to be professional medical advice and is not a substitute for the advice of a qualified veterinarian. Pets Love Deals, Inc. makes no representations or warranties in relation to the information on this website. You must not rely on the information on this website as an alternative to medical advice from your licensed veterinarian. If in doubt, call your Vet! Nothing in this article or elsewhere on this website should be construed as an attempt to offer or render a medical opinion or otherwise engage in the practice of veterinary medicine.

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